Archive for February, 2009
Friday, February 27th, 2009
Dream to drive and exclusive luxury MPV? The only answer I have is Toyota Alphard, its big, huge, but a sure thing, so cool and elegant. It is suitable for any age should be given a chance. This will be my dream car too.
The Toyota Alphard is a luxury MPV produced by the Japanese automaker Toyota since 2002. It is available as a seven or eight-seater with 2.4 and 3.0-litre gasoline engines in 3 different model lines - Alphard G, Alphard V and Alphard Hybrid. The Alphard is primarily made for the Japanese market, but is also sold in Hong Kong, Bangladesh, Thailand, and Malaysia.
The vehicle was named after the Alphard, the brightest star in the constellation Hydra. Toyota states its “E-Four electric 4WD system that regulates a rear-mounted, rear-wheel-propelling electric motor and coordinates electric power distribution to all four wheels. An ECB (Electrically Controlled Brake system) provides efficient wheel-by-wheel brake control.” The full-size Alphard Hybrid MPV qualifies as an Ultra-Low Emissions Vehicle (ULEV), achieving levels 75% lower emissions than the Japanese government’s 2000 benchmark.
The 2.4-litre gasoline engine has been developed specifically for use in Toyota’s hybrid systems and features a high-expansion ratio cycle that raises efficiency and reduces friction. In 2006, a Royal Lounge Alphard was introduced; it is known as a luxurious, four-seat version of the Alphard.
Engine:
- 2.4 L 159 PS gasoline
- 3.0 L V6 220 PS gasoline
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Thursday, February 26th, 2009
Most Toyota’s Camry cars suggest that you service or inspect the transmission fluid at least every 15,000 miles or 12 months depending on the model of the car. There is no harm in checking it more often to ensure that there is still a clear, red color. Check the manual to confirm that the recommended maintenance schedule.
Remove the Old Transmission Fluid, Strainer and Gasket
Step 1
Clean the outside of the fluid pan and the surrounding areas thoroughly to remove all dirt and grease and prevent contamination when you remove the pan. Remove the dipstick from the filler tube and replace it with a funnel. Place a drain pan beneath the transmission fluid pan, remove the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the fluid to drain. Set the drain plug aside where it won’t get dirty.
Step 2
Loosen all but two of the fluid pan retaining bolts in a crisscross fashion with a socket wrench. When only two bolts are left, hold the transmission fluid pan with one hand while you remove the remaining bolts with the other. Be very careful when removing the pan, as some fluid will remain and may spill. Place the pan on a clean surface.
Step 3
Detach any wires connected to the side of the valve body. Remove the strainer by taking off the retaining bolts. Pay attention if some of these bolts are different lengths, so that you can replace them in their correct locations. Remove the strainer and discard the gasket. Be prepared because some fluid will likely drain from the valve body. You may need to scrape remaining pieces of the gasket from the valve body.
Step 4
Find the magnets on the bottom of the pan. Depending on the year of your vehicle, there may be one, two or three magnets. Remove and clean these. Don’t be alarmed if you find metal shavings attached to the magnets. The magnets are there to collect this debris so that it doesn’t clog up the delicate workings of the transmission.
Step 5
Drain the rest of the transmission fluid from the pan and wipe the pan with a clean rag. Remove the old gasket from the pan and the transmission. You may have to scrape off some of the material. In addition, remove the drain plug gasket. Clean the fluid pan and allow it to air dry.
Replace the New Strainer, Gaskets and Transmission Fluid
Step 1
Install a new fluid strainer assembly. Replace the retaining bolts in their original places. Replace the magnets where they were originally, making sure that they don’t interfere with any oil tubes. Put a new gasket on the fluid pan, making sure that all holes line up.
Step 2
Hold the oil pan and gasket in position and hand tighten the retaining bolts in a crisscross fashion. Tighten them to 43 inch pounds with the torque wrench. Replace the drain plug with a new gasket and tighten it to 36 foot pounds. If you had to remove any wires in Section 1, replace them now.
Step 3
Find the type of fluid you should use written on the dipstick. You can also find this information in the vehicle’s owners manual. You will likely find that the recommended fluid is Dexron II or its superseding type.
Step 4
Add the new automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube. Some fluid will remain in the transmission, so add about half of the recommended dry refill amount and check the fluid level. Add a little more if needed and check again until the fluid reaches the correct level on the dipstick.
Step 5
Replace the dipstick, start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. Don’t press the gas pedal. After the engine has idled for a few minutes, shift your car through the gears and then back to Park.
Step 6
Check the fluid level on the dipstick while the car is idling. If the dipstick indicates that the transmission needs more fluid, add a little more until the level reaches the full mark on the dipstick.
Tips & Warnings
The automatic transmission fluid needs to be hot before you drain it, so drive the car for about 20 minutes before the project.
Don’t overfill the transmission with too much fluid, as this can cause serious problems with the transmission. Don’t overfill your transmission with too much fluid. When checking the level of transmission fluid, pay careful attention to the cold and hot markings on the dipstick. When the engine and transmission are cold, the fluid level should fall in the “Cool” indicator range. Likewise, when the engine and transmission are hot, the fluid level should fall in the “Hot” indicator range.
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Wednesday, February 25th, 2009

Most of the humans about the world, including me are aggravating to acquisition the best car locations to abatement the fuel consumption, abnormally if the amount of the petrol assume to be traveling no where. That will be my focus today, which is Fuel Injection parts. The old blazon of car technology is application carburetors area it is acutely not applied and able in appellation of the ammunition consumption. But that era of way for the ammunition administration has change and a lot of of the car started in year of 1980s a lot of of the car architect has change this technology for the bigger ones. The new arrangement has been alien to alter this carburetors-Fuel Bang system. The ammunition bang in a abridge is a arrangement that accumulation the air with the ammunition in centralized agitation engine. In added word, this arrangement has advance the way of ammunition getting acclimated by the engine. A lot of of the car’s architect like Toyota, Honda and even my bounded fabricated car, Proton is aswell application this technology and this arrangement is acceptable for about every ammunition such as Autogas, diesel, hydrogen and gasoline.
The above altered amid this arrangement comparing ammunition bang with carburetors is the way ammunition bang administer the ammunition application the bill beneath top burden and carburetor dispense the assimilation air in low burden to use the fuel. If we wish to allocution about the advantage of application this system, a part of others as listed below.
* Bigger fuel acclimated effectively
* The achievement of the emiisions
* Engine bland operation
* Maintenance amount is lower analyze to carburetors
* Give added ability to the engine bigger than carburetos.
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Tuesday, February 24th, 2009

A fuel injector is about an On/Off switch. If switched on, the fuel injector delivers a abstinent bulk of ammunition into the agitation chamber. If switched off, the ammunition injector holds ammunition in limbo. A alternation of sensors tells the ammunition injectors if to about-face on and for how long. In this way, absolute amounts of ammunition are metered into the engine, so the bifold goals of best ability and aiguille ability can be met and maintained.
The ammunition injector switches on and off millions of times in its lifetime. A ammunition injector can abrasion out or malfunction, just like a ablaze about-face that gets angry on and off abounding times over the years, but in a hardly altered way.
System Advantages
The key advantage of a ammunition bang arrangement is that the ammunition can be metered into the agitation accommodation actual abutting to the access to the cylinder. This area aswell exposes the ammunition injectors to engine heat. Constant heating and cooling are the enemies of the ammunition injector. Ironically, a lot of ammunition injector problems appear not from if the engine is running, but instead from if the engine is angry off. As calefaction escapes from the cooling engine, it heats up the ammunition sitting in the ammunition injectors. A assertive bulk of ammunition can again evaporate. Over time the gums and varnishes formed by this ammunition dehydration can clog centralized injector locations and bind flow. Conversely these aforementioned deposits can anticipate an injector from closing or axis off and causing a ammunition leak.
Correct Diagnosis
While there are accessible signs of beat or adulterated injectors, such as cracks or leaking, it is important to appropriately analyze the botheration afore replacing the ammunition injectors outright. Ammunition injectors can be actual expensive. Rough idle, poor ammunition economy, accident of engine power, a bootless emissions test, or barrier during dispatch can all be affection of chock-full or bedraggled ammunition injectors. These aforementioned affection can aswell be acquired by a chock-full air filter, befuddled atom plugs, chock-full up ammunition filter, or a beat out oxygen sensor. A accepted or car specific cipher clairvoyant can advice bound analyze ammunition arrangement problems, and a account chiral is consistently the a lot of important apparatus in the toolbox.
Start Clean
If adulterated or chock-full fuel injectors are at the basis of the botheration again charwoman may save backup costs. Start with the simple avenue and add a canteen of ammunition injector cleaner at ammunition ample up. If problems abide again removal, testing, and able ammunition injector charwoman can generally restore injectors. If backup injectors are the final solution, consistently alter all corresponding seals and o-rings as well. Seals on ammunition rails, ammunition burden regulators and burke bodies should aswell be arrested and replaced if required. Installing new injectors with beat out seals is absolutely apocryphal economy. Inspecting and replacing the ammunition clarify and ammunition band is aswell acceptable insurance. Finally, use the absolute affliction if alive with gasoline or added combustible fuels. Safety is consistently a acceptable idea.
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Sunday, February 22nd, 2009
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